Wormwood Wine, Propaganda, and the History of the Spritz: Myths from the Communist Era
Wormwood wine, spritz, and communist-era myths tell a story of Romanian drinking habits that date back to the so-called “Golden Age.” From semi-sweet wines to “chip wine,” Romanians navigated an alcoholic landscape filled with paradoxes and workarounds. Read on to discover how “small-barrel” drinks and soda-water mixes became symbols of an era marked by restrictions and forced innovation.
Semi-Sweet Wines and the “Spritz”: During the communist period, semi-sweet and aromatic wines like Tămâioasa Românească, Muscat Ottonel, and Galbena de Odobești were extremely popular. These wines were frequently enjoyed at name-day parties, in apartment stairwells, and on other occasions, often mixed with soda water to create the so-called “spritz.” While most Westerners and wine experts frown upon this practice, it remains popular in many Romanian homes to this day.
Wormwood Wine and Propaganda: Introduced in the 1970s, wormwood wine was originally created to mask the unpleasant odor and taste of oxidized wine. Although it was initially meant to improve low-quality wine, it eventually became a standalone product. The communist regime promoted wormwood wine in campaigns to celebrate “Romanian wine” internationally, though it was often made from subpar leftovers treated with wormwood to enhance the flavor. Popular among consumers, wormwood wine illustrates the regime’s paradox: it sought to promote the success of Romanian wine despite the generally mediocre quality of available products.
Banning Alcohol Imports: Under Nicolae Ceaușescu’s rule, most alcohol imports were banned, even from friendly countries, resulting in a lack of diversity in alcohol consumption. This policy forced Romanians to rely heavily on domestic production, often characterized by poor quality. Because of these restrictions, many Romanians sought rare alternatives, such as Western whiskey or Soviet vodka, which they used as a form of currency to obtain goods and services.
“Small-Barrel” Wine: The regime’s obsession with record-breaking yields per hectare led to a decline in wine quality. The term “small-barrel wine” referred to high-quality wines produced in limited quantities and reserved for international competitions. These wines were made from the best grapes and with more meticulous winemaking methods, generally appreciated more than the lower-quality standardized products available to the public. However, access to these wines was restricted, as they were reserved for high-ranking officials or special events.
“Chip Wine”: Farmers were required to sell their grape quotas to the state, but they often sold the weakest grapes since they were underpaid. This led to the use of industrial molasses to compensate for the lack of natural sugars, resulting in an inferior product known as “chip wine.” This wine could contain methyl alcohol (a toxic substance, not to be confused with ethyl alcohol), which often caused headaches for consumers.
If you enjoyed this article, visit the Museum of Communism in Bucharest – Str. Covaci, nr. 6.
